3 November, 2004 - Delhi, Varanasi, Sarnath
Greetings all, it has been a couple of weeks since I’ve written an update on my situation over here. Fortunately for everyone, this entry won’t be nearly as long as the previous one; this one is what I like to refer to as a “one flusher.” Nothing super crazy or exciting has been happening, but things continue to roll over here. Here I go:
So a couple quick thoughts before I get into the mix. In India, ice cream is readily available wherever you go. In fact I’ve gotten used to eating ice cream almost on a daily basis and sometimes several times a day. I wish I could say that this is helping me gain some weight back, but alas it is not. Anywho, I’m really going to miss eating ice cream here. I really like it.
During the week that I got back from the big journey, there was a big Dassera celebration going on. Dassera is the tenth day of the celebration of good over evil and the end of Navratri. In the Ramayan, it is relates to when Ram killed Ravana. Well in our friend’s neighborhood, there were supposed to be lots of people gathered on these open grounds to watch Ravana effigies burn. We went there thinking that it might be interesting to see this, but we had no idea what it would be like. When we arrived, there were three 70-80 foot Ravana effigies reaching into the sky.
Ravana Effigies on Dassera
Thousands of people had gathered and it was very euphoric. While we waited for the fun to begin, we drank milk mixed with soda and various flavorings. Then they enacted a small segment of the Ramayan and ignited the Ravanas. They immediately caught fire and along with the fireworks inside, went up in flames within a matter of seconds. It was an amazing site and somehow they were able to keep the massive Ravanas from falling into the immense crowd. We were packed in like sardines with the rest of the crowd and once the final Ravana went up in flames, it was a mad rush to get out. This was the closest I’ve ever come to being trampled. We literally could not walk and our bodies were carried with the momentum of the crowd. Because I carry a man-purse here, I knew I would have to be careful. Luckily, my man-purse is equipped with a normal strap for shoulder use, a handle to carry it, and fanny pack style straps. Before the last Ravana was ignited, I fastened the fanny pack straps because I knew it would be an ordeal getting out and I figured some people saw me take pictures with my camera and would want to make it theirs. As we were carried out by the crowd, we struggled to remain on our feet because we knew if we went down, it would be sour times. When we finally made it out, our feet were trampled, my sandals were nearly all the way off, and someone had unfastened the shoulder strap of my man-purse. Luckily we escaped unharmed, but it kind of gave me a taste of what it would be like to be in one of those soccer crowds, not good.
The weekend after my return from the trip my friend Michael and I decided to go to Humayun’s tomb in Delhi. It is sort of like a mini Taj Mahal, but not as crowded and touristy at all. Indian residents get in for 10 rupees whereas tourists get in for 250 rupees, but my tan skin and limited Hindi skills proved valuable as I was able to secure us cheap admittance. Unfortunately we only had a limited amount of time there, but it was beautiful. We could have easily spent the day there. The tomb was built in 1570 and was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. After the tomb we visited the INA market. This bazaar features imported food from all over including food from the states such as pop tarts, root beer etc. This bazaar also features a meat market that was like nothing I have ever seen before. If you are vegetarian or an animal lover, you might want to close your eyes while reading this. We witnessed chickens being killed and walked by tables with heads of goats piled on them. With the exception of beef, there was every kind of meat imaginable, both dead, alive and everything in between. The smell was overwhelming and the sight was assaulting. As a carnivore I forced myself to watch because I felt it was important. It was quite hard to handle, but I’m glad I experienced it. Oh, I forgot to mention the best part of the whole day. On the way to Humayun’s tomb, we were at a stoplight in our rickshaw and these children came up to us. Normally children ask us for money, but these children wanted something different. All they wanted to do was laugh at us and scratch our arms playfully. At first we didn’t know what was happening, but then we started enjoying ourselves and laughing with them. When the light changed the children said bye to us and we were happily on our way.
The Happy Scratchers
Last weekend two of my roommates and I decided to take a trip to Varanasi. Varanasi, situated in Uttar Pradesh, is one of the holiest places in India and one of the oldest cities in the world. According to some, many people travel to Varanasi and remain there until they pass, because to die in Varanasi can supposedly release one from the cycle of rebirth. This was not our intention of traveling there.
Varanasi
We took an overnight train to get to Varanasi from Delhi. Before we even got off the train, there were three or four people peering in at us through the bars of the train. When we got off they surrounded us and asked us if we needed an auto. Eventually we got our bearings and took an auto to the area of our hotel. In Varanasi, you can only get so far by auto because it is a maze of narrow alleys and tiny streets traversable only by foot or motorcycle. We checked into our hotel, which featured an amazing view of the Ganga. On our way out from the hotel down to the ghats, we came across three puppies. They were incredibly cute and we decided to name them and we each picked one out for ourselves. I named my little one Borris. We then walked through the streets and had lunch and for some reason decided to get haircuts and shaves with blades. We explored the city and took a ride on a boat through the many ghats. All along the Ganga there are ghats where people are cremated. From the river and from the edge of the bank, you can see the flames perpetually burning. In these flames bodies are cremated, all of this visible to us. In the evening we shopped a little bit and stumbled into a decent sized store that sold silk products. We sat on the cushions while the workers showed us different items. The owner of the store had a really good sense of humor and was joking around with us. Eventually he tried to sell us underwear made in Varanasi. He told us that everyone in Varanasi wore this type of underwear, called a lagotha. There was a man standing in the alley visible from the store and he called him over. The man then proceeded to pull down his pants and show us a little more than his underwear. We all laughed and then the owner asked one of his workers to try the underwear on for us. We told him it wasn’t necessary, but he insisted. We told him if he had to that he should put it on over his pants. So while we all joked around, the worker tied the underwear over his jeans. As the flash of my camera went off, the man trying on the underwear looked up and yelled and we all laughed, including him. The owner was a riot and used American slang to describe body parts and it was evident that he had spent a good amount of time talking to Americans. We each bought something from his store because we were thoroughly entertained and left happy customers.
Varanasi Underwear Model
Later that night we walked around the ghats and were taken inside one of the hospices. This was the most difficult part about being in Varanasi. They have hospices which people basically move into to die. We didn’t know we were being led up to one but before we knew it, we were standing in a pitch black hospice. A lady came up to us asking for money and it was explained to us that she was asking for money to pay for the wood which would be used to cremate her. We stood in the hospice for a long time watching the bodies being cremated below.
Hospices in Varanasi
There is something about Varanasi that is different than anywhere I’ve ever been. Death seems to be more a part of life there than anywhere. It is accepted and embraced there. I will never forget standing in the hospice that night thinking about what I was witnessing. Later that night we sat down to a dinner on the roof of this hotel and had food while listening to live north indian classical music. I had been eating a lot of french toast the whole weekend and I think I’m addicted now. I never considered myself a breakfast guy and I still don’t, but I’m really starting to enjoy it. We didn’t fall asleep that night until after one in the morning. The next day we woke up at five thirty in the morning to watch the sunrise from a boat on the river. It was a beautiful sight and when we returned to the hotel, we had breakfast. I had the french toast. After breakfast my roommates were really tired and wanted to nap. I was also extremely tired but I had other activities in mind besides sleeping. While my roommates slept I went down to where the puppies were. I started talking to the person who was the closest thing to an owner that they probably had. He told me that two of the other puppies had already died. I asked him if I could give one a bath and he said I could have him if I had a good home. I told him I just wanted to wash him because my home was in Delhi. Then I ran upstairs to the room and came down with a couple of bottles of water and some newspaper. I found Borris and placed him on this roof while I gently washed him. He was the cutest thing in the world and really dirty. It took me a while to get the dirt and dead ants off him. He didn’t struggle or put up a fight at all. All he would do was look up at me occasionally with his little puppy dog expression on his face. He was so cute I can’t even believe it. I eventually dried him off with some newspaper. Luckily it was a warm day, so he wasn’t too cold. Eventually I had to return to the room as we had to leave. On our way out, I said goodbye. It was pretty difficult, but I managed.
Sweet Little Borris
Our next destination was a place called Sarnath. Sarnath is the location at which the Buddha gave his first speech. It was pretty amazing to be there and we sat around and talked politics and ethics with each other. Before we knew it, it was time to go back to Varanasi to catch our train. Varanasi is supposed to have really good Pan, so throughout the weekend we were trying different Pan stands.
Pan Vala, Varanasi
We made it to the train station and boarded our train without issue. I listened to music and passed out early. Throughout the night we were awakened by the chai valas selling tea. That is pretty much how it goes on the trains, but by morning the number of chai valas was a little absurd. At one point it sounded like they were in a single file line in teams all calling out “chai, garam chai.” I remember having a dream and hearing a boy’s voice in my dream. I woke up at five in the morning to realize that the voice wasn’t in my dream, that it was some little boy on the train that wouldn’t shut up. The boy was speaking Hindi, but he seemed to have some Latin or Cuban accent and I was thinking to myself, “Who let freakin’ Illian Gonzales on the train, and how the hell did he learn Hindi?” I don’t know what this kid’s problem was, but he wouldn’t be quiet. At certain points on trains you just realize that attempting to sleep is futile and busy yourself with other things. I decided to busy myself with trying to stay warm because for some reason even though our train wasn’t A/C, it was freezing. All I had was a sheet that I brought and the lungi and shirt I was wearing. I wasn’t about to complain though because I knew this meant that the weather was finally cooling down. We got back to Delhi early in the morning and spent the rest of the day studying.
On the school front, things have started to heat up. I’ve finally had to start doing some work and in the last two weeks I’ve given a presentation in class on a paper I had written and finished writing another paper. I’ve been spending most of my time at the study center where there are computers and a lackluster internet connection. One night I stayed up the entire night without sleeping because one mosquito was biting and bothering me. I hate mosquitoes. I have two more papers and one more test and I am officially finished with the quarter. I plan on finishing the next two papers in the next two and a half weeks or so and then enjoying my time in Delhi and other cities in India until I take my Hindi final on the 2nd of December. After that point, it’s off to Southeast Asia.
A couple other things and then I will end this message whose length has spiraled out of control. Diwali is coming up and it’s one of the biggest Holidays of the year, so it should be pretty interesting to be in India for it. Here’s a quick little story of how much of a loser and jerk I am. I was at this store the other day and there was an elderly lady sitting outside. She asked me for money and I gave her some change I had on me. Then I realized that I had some food in my backpack and asked her if she wanted some. She said yes and I handed her a bag of snacks. I finished buying my stuff and then she looked at me and told me she didn’t have any teeth. It was then that I realized that I had given her peanuts and the hardest edible substance known to mankind, Peanut Brittle! I couldn’t believe it. I felt like the biggest jerk in the world. I felt like a real shmuck after that and walked off with my tail between my legs.
Coming back to Delhi has filled me with a lot of mixed emotion. There is very little time left here now. It was incredible to be able to travel so much during the previous week, and I felt quite different upon returning. We came back to the pollution and noise and traffic, but something about it felt homey. The other day I was alone in a rickshaw on my way home from the study center late at night. I was listening to music and then it hit me. I realized that I really and truly love India. I don’t know what caused this realization, but it occurred to me that it has become my home. I’ve grown accustomed to and even fond of the people, the place, the sights, sounds, and yes even the smells. It saddened me to think that in a couple months I would be leaving India for who knows how long. I’ve recently realized that it is not possible for me to live in America without coming back to the India every so often. I think that I might want to come back here to live at some point as well. It is difficult to explain and I’m sure that many people who travel abroad for any extended period feel the same way, but India has become a part of me. It is such a beautiful place and no matter where you go, there is life, always life. I’ve come across some of the most disturbing things I’ve ever seen in my life, but at the same time I’ve experienced things that will be with me forever. I know it may sound contrived, but it’s true. My heart has been changed by this place and it is hard for me to imagine not living here. I have now made it past the four month mark and my journey is slowly coming to an end. I will see a handful of you next month for the trip of a lifetime. The rest of you I will see in January when I return. In the time I have left I plan on spending my time traveling and trying to appreciate life here. I will keep the updates coming and please keep me updated on your lives. Hope you are all well…
Z, Michael, Rohit in Varanasi
-Zameer
So a couple quick thoughts before I get into the mix. In India, ice cream is readily available wherever you go. In fact I’ve gotten used to eating ice cream almost on a daily basis and sometimes several times a day. I wish I could say that this is helping me gain some weight back, but alas it is not. Anywho, I’m really going to miss eating ice cream here. I really like it.
During the week that I got back from the big journey, there was a big Dassera celebration going on. Dassera is the tenth day of the celebration of good over evil and the end of Navratri. In the Ramayan, it is relates to when Ram killed Ravana. Well in our friend’s neighborhood, there were supposed to be lots of people gathered on these open grounds to watch Ravana effigies burn. We went there thinking that it might be interesting to see this, but we had no idea what it would be like. When we arrived, there were three 70-80 foot Ravana effigies reaching into the sky.
Ravana Effigies on Dassera
Thousands of people had gathered and it was very euphoric. While we waited for the fun to begin, we drank milk mixed with soda and various flavorings. Then they enacted a small segment of the Ramayan and ignited the Ravanas. They immediately caught fire and along with the fireworks inside, went up in flames within a matter of seconds. It was an amazing site and somehow they were able to keep the massive Ravanas from falling into the immense crowd. We were packed in like sardines with the rest of the crowd and once the final Ravana went up in flames, it was a mad rush to get out. This was the closest I’ve ever come to being trampled. We literally could not walk and our bodies were carried with the momentum of the crowd. Because I carry a man-purse here, I knew I would have to be careful. Luckily, my man-purse is equipped with a normal strap for shoulder use, a handle to carry it, and fanny pack style straps. Before the last Ravana was ignited, I fastened the fanny pack straps because I knew it would be an ordeal getting out and I figured some people saw me take pictures with my camera and would want to make it theirs. As we were carried out by the crowd, we struggled to remain on our feet because we knew if we went down, it would be sour times. When we finally made it out, our feet were trampled, my sandals were nearly all the way off, and someone had unfastened the shoulder strap of my man-purse. Luckily we escaped unharmed, but it kind of gave me a taste of what it would be like to be in one of those soccer crowds, not good.
The weekend after my return from the trip my friend Michael and I decided to go to Humayun’s tomb in Delhi. It is sort of like a mini Taj Mahal, but not as crowded and touristy at all. Indian residents get in for 10 rupees whereas tourists get in for 250 rupees, but my tan skin and limited Hindi skills proved valuable as I was able to secure us cheap admittance. Unfortunately we only had a limited amount of time there, but it was beautiful. We could have easily spent the day there. The tomb was built in 1570 and was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. After the tomb we visited the INA market. This bazaar features imported food from all over including food from the states such as pop tarts, root beer etc. This bazaar also features a meat market that was like nothing I have ever seen before. If you are vegetarian or an animal lover, you might want to close your eyes while reading this. We witnessed chickens being killed and walked by tables with heads of goats piled on them. With the exception of beef, there was every kind of meat imaginable, both dead, alive and everything in between. The smell was overwhelming and the sight was assaulting. As a carnivore I forced myself to watch because I felt it was important. It was quite hard to handle, but I’m glad I experienced it. Oh, I forgot to mention the best part of the whole day. On the way to Humayun’s tomb, we were at a stoplight in our rickshaw and these children came up to us. Normally children ask us for money, but these children wanted something different. All they wanted to do was laugh at us and scratch our arms playfully. At first we didn’t know what was happening, but then we started enjoying ourselves and laughing with them. When the light changed the children said bye to us and we were happily on our way.
The Happy Scratchers
Last weekend two of my roommates and I decided to take a trip to Varanasi. Varanasi, situated in Uttar Pradesh, is one of the holiest places in India and one of the oldest cities in the world. According to some, many people travel to Varanasi and remain there until they pass, because to die in Varanasi can supposedly release one from the cycle of rebirth. This was not our intention of traveling there.
Varanasi
We took an overnight train to get to Varanasi from Delhi. Before we even got off the train, there were three or four people peering in at us through the bars of the train. When we got off they surrounded us and asked us if we needed an auto. Eventually we got our bearings and took an auto to the area of our hotel. In Varanasi, you can only get so far by auto because it is a maze of narrow alleys and tiny streets traversable only by foot or motorcycle. We checked into our hotel, which featured an amazing view of the Ganga. On our way out from the hotel down to the ghats, we came across three puppies. They were incredibly cute and we decided to name them and we each picked one out for ourselves. I named my little one Borris. We then walked through the streets and had lunch and for some reason decided to get haircuts and shaves with blades. We explored the city and took a ride on a boat through the many ghats. All along the Ganga there are ghats where people are cremated. From the river and from the edge of the bank, you can see the flames perpetually burning. In these flames bodies are cremated, all of this visible to us. In the evening we shopped a little bit and stumbled into a decent sized store that sold silk products. We sat on the cushions while the workers showed us different items. The owner of the store had a really good sense of humor and was joking around with us. Eventually he tried to sell us underwear made in Varanasi. He told us that everyone in Varanasi wore this type of underwear, called a lagotha. There was a man standing in the alley visible from the store and he called him over. The man then proceeded to pull down his pants and show us a little more than his underwear. We all laughed and then the owner asked one of his workers to try the underwear on for us. We told him it wasn’t necessary, but he insisted. We told him if he had to that he should put it on over his pants. So while we all joked around, the worker tied the underwear over his jeans. As the flash of my camera went off, the man trying on the underwear looked up and yelled and we all laughed, including him. The owner was a riot and used American slang to describe body parts and it was evident that he had spent a good amount of time talking to Americans. We each bought something from his store because we were thoroughly entertained and left happy customers.
Varanasi Underwear Model
Later that night we walked around the ghats and were taken inside one of the hospices. This was the most difficult part about being in Varanasi. They have hospices which people basically move into to die. We didn’t know we were being led up to one but before we knew it, we were standing in a pitch black hospice. A lady came up to us asking for money and it was explained to us that she was asking for money to pay for the wood which would be used to cremate her. We stood in the hospice for a long time watching the bodies being cremated below.
Hospices in Varanasi
There is something about Varanasi that is different than anywhere I’ve ever been. Death seems to be more a part of life there than anywhere. It is accepted and embraced there. I will never forget standing in the hospice that night thinking about what I was witnessing. Later that night we sat down to a dinner on the roof of this hotel and had food while listening to live north indian classical music. I had been eating a lot of french toast the whole weekend and I think I’m addicted now. I never considered myself a breakfast guy and I still don’t, but I’m really starting to enjoy it. We didn’t fall asleep that night until after one in the morning. The next day we woke up at five thirty in the morning to watch the sunrise from a boat on the river. It was a beautiful sight and when we returned to the hotel, we had breakfast. I had the french toast. After breakfast my roommates were really tired and wanted to nap. I was also extremely tired but I had other activities in mind besides sleeping. While my roommates slept I went down to where the puppies were. I started talking to the person who was the closest thing to an owner that they probably had. He told me that two of the other puppies had already died. I asked him if I could give one a bath and he said I could have him if I had a good home. I told him I just wanted to wash him because my home was in Delhi. Then I ran upstairs to the room and came down with a couple of bottles of water and some newspaper. I found Borris and placed him on this roof while I gently washed him. He was the cutest thing in the world and really dirty. It took me a while to get the dirt and dead ants off him. He didn’t struggle or put up a fight at all. All he would do was look up at me occasionally with his little puppy dog expression on his face. He was so cute I can’t even believe it. I eventually dried him off with some newspaper. Luckily it was a warm day, so he wasn’t too cold. Eventually I had to return to the room as we had to leave. On our way out, I said goodbye. It was pretty difficult, but I managed.
Sweet Little Borris
Our next destination was a place called Sarnath. Sarnath is the location at which the Buddha gave his first speech. It was pretty amazing to be there and we sat around and talked politics and ethics with each other. Before we knew it, it was time to go back to Varanasi to catch our train. Varanasi is supposed to have really good Pan, so throughout the weekend we were trying different Pan stands.
Pan Vala, Varanasi
We made it to the train station and boarded our train without issue. I listened to music and passed out early. Throughout the night we were awakened by the chai valas selling tea. That is pretty much how it goes on the trains, but by morning the number of chai valas was a little absurd. At one point it sounded like they were in a single file line in teams all calling out “chai, garam chai.” I remember having a dream and hearing a boy’s voice in my dream. I woke up at five in the morning to realize that the voice wasn’t in my dream, that it was some little boy on the train that wouldn’t shut up. The boy was speaking Hindi, but he seemed to have some Latin or Cuban accent and I was thinking to myself, “Who let freakin’ Illian Gonzales on the train, and how the hell did he learn Hindi?” I don’t know what this kid’s problem was, but he wouldn’t be quiet. At certain points on trains you just realize that attempting to sleep is futile and busy yourself with other things. I decided to busy myself with trying to stay warm because for some reason even though our train wasn’t A/C, it was freezing. All I had was a sheet that I brought and the lungi and shirt I was wearing. I wasn’t about to complain though because I knew this meant that the weather was finally cooling down. We got back to Delhi early in the morning and spent the rest of the day studying.
On the school front, things have started to heat up. I’ve finally had to start doing some work and in the last two weeks I’ve given a presentation in class on a paper I had written and finished writing another paper. I’ve been spending most of my time at the study center where there are computers and a lackluster internet connection. One night I stayed up the entire night without sleeping because one mosquito was biting and bothering me. I hate mosquitoes. I have two more papers and one more test and I am officially finished with the quarter. I plan on finishing the next two papers in the next two and a half weeks or so and then enjoying my time in Delhi and other cities in India until I take my Hindi final on the 2nd of December. After that point, it’s off to Southeast Asia.
A couple other things and then I will end this message whose length has spiraled out of control. Diwali is coming up and it’s one of the biggest Holidays of the year, so it should be pretty interesting to be in India for it. Here’s a quick little story of how much of a loser and jerk I am. I was at this store the other day and there was an elderly lady sitting outside. She asked me for money and I gave her some change I had on me. Then I realized that I had some food in my backpack and asked her if she wanted some. She said yes and I handed her a bag of snacks. I finished buying my stuff and then she looked at me and told me she didn’t have any teeth. It was then that I realized that I had given her peanuts and the hardest edible substance known to mankind, Peanut Brittle! I couldn’t believe it. I felt like the biggest jerk in the world. I felt like a real shmuck after that and walked off with my tail between my legs.
Coming back to Delhi has filled me with a lot of mixed emotion. There is very little time left here now. It was incredible to be able to travel so much during the previous week, and I felt quite different upon returning. We came back to the pollution and noise and traffic, but something about it felt homey. The other day I was alone in a rickshaw on my way home from the study center late at night. I was listening to music and then it hit me. I realized that I really and truly love India. I don’t know what caused this realization, but it occurred to me that it has become my home. I’ve grown accustomed to and even fond of the people, the place, the sights, sounds, and yes even the smells. It saddened me to think that in a couple months I would be leaving India for who knows how long. I’ve recently realized that it is not possible for me to live in America without coming back to the India every so often. I think that I might want to come back here to live at some point as well. It is difficult to explain and I’m sure that many people who travel abroad for any extended period feel the same way, but India has become a part of me. It is such a beautiful place and no matter where you go, there is life, always life. I’ve come across some of the most disturbing things I’ve ever seen in my life, but at the same time I’ve experienced things that will be with me forever. I know it may sound contrived, but it’s true. My heart has been changed by this place and it is hard for me to imagine not living here. I have now made it past the four month mark and my journey is slowly coming to an end. I will see a handful of you next month for the trip of a lifetime. The rest of you I will see in January when I return. In the time I have left I plan on spending my time traveling and trying to appreciate life here. I will keep the updates coming and please keep me updated on your lives. Hope you are all well…
Z, Michael, Rohit in Varanasi
-Zameer
posted by Zameer at 11/03/2004 08:34:00 AM
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